San Domingo

Persephone... Cruiser/Racer
Nigel & Karen Goodhew...
Tue 16 Apr 2013 19:37
Sunday morning arrived and the crews of Persephone and Tulasi again joined forces, hired a car and set of for San Domingo, the Capital of Dominican Republic, situated on the south (Caribbean Sea) side of the island.
 
The trip south took over 4 hours, and gave us an amazing series of insights into life in the DR, the island's scenery and some of it's history.
 
The dominant form of transport is the motorcycle...preferably small and smoky. A little bike can easily accommodate a family of four, and there are no crash helmets or any other regulatory interferences here. Some of the bikes are actually taxis, and wherever people gather, there are often hundreds of these little scooters and bikes parked....reminiscent of China in many ways.
 
Commercial vehicles are generally huge  American ones which thunder  around on the generally poorly maintained roads. Locals believe there are no speed limits....there are speed limit signs but these are apparently mostly  decoration or occasionally used as targets for gun holding citizens seekinng practise.
 
Other tips included "do not get out of your car under any circumstances, even at petrol stations" and "make sure a hire car has black windows so you cannot be seen".
 
The poverty is palpable, and there is a history of violence here, though I will say here that in our week long stay, we have seen nothing but good humour and welcoming smiles.
 
Our journey took us across the centre of the island, through luscious hillside greenery, and towns and cities like Santiago...a spawling metropolis, perhaps exceptional for it's almost complete lack of road signs!
 
On to San Domingo, another substantial town, with a large suburban area. However, this was the first European settlement in the New World...founded by Christopher Columbus in the years before the Americas were discovered, and so had to be visited. Some of the original stone buildings from that time remain, and our hotel on the west side of the river, was one of them.
 
The Spanish influence in the people and the culture is more marked in San Domingo than it is in the north. We explored the old town, taking in a small demonstration outside the Cathedral apparently about gay rights and the ability to display affection in public. Later, after sunset, we attended a free open air concert offering a delightful mix of local Marenga music plus some seemingly eagerly awaited appearances from local pop celebrities. It was very latin....and great fun.
 
Our hotel was luxurious and after a late supper in a recommended restaurant, we fell into our king size beds and slept soundly.
 
The trip home to our boats was via a more easterly route, taking in the flatter landscape out there and the rice growing region east of Monte Plata. After a 5 hour drive we were ready for a swift sundowner, and early to bed. Tomorrow we prepare for the off...departure for the Atlantic, Bermuda and home.....via the Azores.