The Cape Verdes are a revelation
S/Y Pelerin
Colin Speedie & Louise Johnson
Sun 16 Dec 2012 18:12
Our natural instinct when we arrive somewhere new is to stay a while to get to know the place properly, even if this is enforced due to work projects or reports needing our attention. This time, we can’t stay, but we both really feel at home here. The Cape Verdes are an exotic blend of both Portuguese and African influences, and sea-farers from far and wide have rolled up here for centuries, whether intentionally or by accident. In the early days of African independence, it was considered a ‘useful’ dumping ground for political prisoners from other Portuguese-African colonies. No wonder it feels like such a melting pot. It’s difficult to categorise it, and that perhaps is because it defies categorisation – it is simply the Cape Verdes, unlike anywhere else we’ve ever been…
Arriving a few days ago, after the four-day sail from Dakar, we started glimpsing the islands just as the sun was setting. Passing Sal, the most north-easterly of the ‘Barlovento’ (or windward) islands, we continued west onto Sao Vicente knowing this was the best location to talk with boat engineers and stock up on food for the next leg. Several squalls hit us during that last night, a feature of these waters (personal note: if you can no longer see the stars, it means there’s a horrible big black cloud in the way), so we reefed down to minimal canvas. We also didn’t want to arrive at our destination too soon, as entering new harbours at night is only for the very bold (or very stupid, in my humble opinion!). Anyhow as the eastern sky started to lighten during my 6am-9am watch, silhouettes of the jagged peaks of the north-western Cape Verdean islands started to become clear. To be honest, the islands were very reminiscent of the Inner Hebrides, and between squalls and gusts we were pointing out our newly-found local versions of well-loved Scottish islands: the peaks of Rum and the Skye Cuillins, and even a Sgurr of Eigg! So, of course, that’s why we felt at home…
Just for good measure, after turning into the natural harbour at Mindello, the odd catabatic gust would hit us. It was a little disturbing to see so many great hulks of wrecked ships at various stages of break up littered in the shallows around the bay. But we were within sight of the anchorage and nothing was going to stop us now. So we skirted around the boats already an anchor, choose ourselves a nice spot and dropped the hook. As it was only around 10am, it was a little too early for the celebratory arrival beer (only a factor of timezone I suppose!), so the kettle was put on, the sails packed away and a very large fry-up breakfast decided on as exactly the right option!
The usual new-country activity of finding and waiting at the offices of the immigration police and Customs was pain-free, and very streamlined. Since our arrival, and sleep catch-up, we’ve been walking round the old town and getting to know Mindelo. They have the best old-fashioned vegetable market I’ve seen for decades, and as the token vegetarian on the boat, I’ve not wanted for anything since arriving here – well, apart from mushrooms, but they are admittedly very difficult to come by in the tropics!
More soon on what we’ve been doing since our arrival.