Fjällbacka, Sweden 58:35.854N 011:16.814 E

Pelagia
Frans & Sarah Toonen
Fri 16 Jun 2017 17:00
Friday 16 June 2017. 24nm. 5 hour passage on the engine (no wind) in the heaviest rain we have ever seen - all the way. 

What a wet day. Rain was forecast all day but we set off anyway as on Fridays the marinas are busy so it is best to arrive as early as possible. The scenery was stunning today when the rain allowed us to see it. We were wet through in no time at all but luckily it wasn’t cold. 

The inside coastal route took us north through the Sotekanalen, 3 miles, with a lifting bridge then Hamburgsund  which is also very narrow and delightful. It was almost a shame to arrive and moor on in the guest harbour of the little town of Fjällbacka on the coast of the mainland. The Swedish ‘Agatha Christie’ author has a series of murder mysteries called ‘The Fjällbacka Murders’ which are set here. We watched the TV series recently and that’s why we decided to stop here as the scenery looked amazing. The town is also famous because it is where Ingrid Bergman spent her summer holidays after she married for the third time - her husband owned an island just off shore. There is a statue of her and bus loads of Japanese/Asian tourists arrive every day to admire it (odd!) and walk around the harbour taking hundreds of photos. They like to pose by all the boats and if the boats are empty they climb on and pose by the wheel. The neighbour invited a family on and they took turns wearing his ‘skipper’ hat - very entertaining. 

Fjällbacka is exactly as we have seen on the telly and most of the buildings are traditional wooden style on granite bases. We climbed the headland to take in the view and there are hundreds of islands as far as you can see. The weather has warmed up and we lazed around quite a bit, ate ice-cream etc and stayed 3 nights. 

The guest marina filled up but there was very little rafting required. In a couple of weeks when the holidays start the harbour will be so full apparently you can walk right across it from boat to boat. 

Full concentration, narrow canal


Fjällbacka at midnight

Pelagia centre - islands as far as you can see


It’s been there since the ice age - should be ok