Our last days in Tahanea and getting into the south pass Fakarava

Nickanddenisesailing
Tue 4 Jul 2017 01:08
16.30.384 S 145.27.402 W

We hope you are not getting too sick of the island ramblings! Here is our news from the last week......

We had a few windy days in Tahanea where the passes were a bit too rough to cross to do wider exploring so we made the most of our time in our private bay. I enjoyed lots more windsurfing and we were able to snorkel around the reefs nearer to the boat. One of the days we decided to take a walk around the whole of the island which we were anchored off. It took us about three hours or so. Nick was armed with his machete (which he got gifted in the Marquesas by one of our friendly guides) and I was ready with deep pockets for shell collecting. Once we had got around the windy side into the calm we realised we had forgotten our water so I climed a coconut tree - machete in my teeth- and cut us one down. Nick was very impressed, even if the tree was pretty much horizontal over the water haha!

When the wind died off we were finally able to cross 2 of the passes and head to what we thought was an abandonded village in the dinghy. We met two guys there, who we think (through my broken french) are the guardians of the reserve. They were nice and happy for us to take a look around. A smart small church, many empty booze bottles (including an empty bottle of bubble gum vodka....) and a house full of dried coconut (kopra - for Tahiti). We didnt stay long before jumping back in the water and snorkeling the pass. Again stunning corals and an abundance of life.

The colours of the water here are just sensational and I cant stop taking photos of the beautiful clear turquoise water. We joke about 'magic carpet rides' where one of us lies over the front of the dinghy and when we speed through the crystal clear calm water you can see everything - a bit like high speed snorkelling. Needless to say our cameras our getting lots of use.

We decided that yesterday would be our last day as the weather was calming and would be a good night for our crossing. We started out early, highly motivated with some yoga and then a swim to the shore. All was well until we turned back and were just about to start our 'cardio' sprints back to the boat when Nick grabbed me and pushed me behind him as a large lemon shark (7ft+) cruised in closer towards us for a look. Knowing these to be one of the more aggressive of the sharks seen around the islands my heart started racing. It didn't stick around too long, just cruised past and had a good look at us. After that it didn't take me long to get back to the boat!

After breakfast we headed over to the western most pass for a spot of fishing. Nick had decided that he wanted to get three grouper (which we see everywhere in their 100's) for us, Sun of Moondance and our other kiwi mates Eudora who we were due to meet us in Fakarava.

Now fishing in these parts is no mean feat. There are a lot of sharks around which swarm very quickly when they sense a fish is in distress. Many of the locals on Rarioa told us that the only way to spear fish was to spear the fish then quickly pull it in and hold it tight against your chest..... not fancying this method with many large sharks around Nick initially opted for the old fashioned rod and reel. It was great fun watching him cast and then seeing all the fish underwater swarm around the bait (gives you some idea of how clear the water is). After he caught one grouper he went to cast again just as two huge manta rays swam up to the back of the dinghy. I have a good video and there is some hilarious snorkel voiced commentary!

The next few casts of the line were unsuccessful and weights and line were lost to the reef. As we hadn't seen too many sharks, and the grouper were just there tempting us we came up with a team spearfishing plan. Nick would swim down, spear the fish and bolt for the surface and the dinghy where I would grab the gun and pull in as fast as I possibly could before the sharks could get our fish. 2 more grouper in the bucket and no shark attacks - success!! We headed back to the boat to pack up, eat lunch and relax before our night passage ahead.

So we left last night about 9pm for Fakarava's south pass. It was a calm and easy night, very little wind so we motored pretty much the whole way. We made it to the tricky pass at slack tide and good light this morning to get through. All went well and despite some tense moments we got through no problem. We are now anchored up very close to where Mum and Dad where 7(?) years ago. We have already had our first snorkel through the pass which was breath taking. Imagine skydiving over corals in clear glassy water with 100's of sharks around and a huge array of beautiful fish. More tomorrow!





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