Duke of York Islands

After the busyness of Rabual we have found a beautiful island to anchor off in very clear bath like water. A thunderstorm has just gone over which is a welcome relief in temperature after feeling constantly sweaty and wet from humidity. The temperature has notably increased in the last week or so as we have got further north. We have had many visitors in banana boats and canoes, many returning from Kokopo from the market, who are very friendly and much more confident than the islanders, being more educated with better English. Sweet delicious pineapples and coconuts are in season in their gardens, so we have stocked up on those. There is lovely snorkelling off a small, uplifted, coral limestone island which had beautiful fish and coral.

Sunday we went into church and were warmly welcomed by the congregation, being asked to sit up the front with the ministers! Plenty of loud, beautiful singing, harmonising, clapping and a bit of arm waving to praise their lord! The girls attracted a lot of interest and are getting used to being patted due to their skin and hair being a novelty. We were asked to lunch afterwards of delicious fish, pumpkin leaves with noodles and cooked banana, all cooked in coconut milk, wrapped in banana leaves. We left the island with bag loads of produce, more bananas to cook up 10 different ways!!

Friday 9^th November

Up the coast of New Ireland

Very calm sailing up the coast with not a breath of wind. Bait balls of fish jumping were exciting to watch and were productive, catching two yellow fin tuna. Two whales, Pilot we think, were lolling on top of the water showing their sleek bodies and small dorsal fins. The lush, green, tree studded hills of New Ireland were shrouded in cloud and we could see many showers or rain over the land. Thunder and lightning have become a common sight and sound with humidity becoming high and very hot still days. Plenty of swimming is the only way to cool off on the still days! 

Anchoring at Kalalili Harbour was peaceful and then at Katherine Bay, we attracted much more attention having the chief for a cup of tea and hordes of children swimming around the boat. At Bakhatere Harbour we were greeted by Chris and Uncle Tom who came on the boat for a cup of tea. They were very friendly and good to hear more information about the area in their very good English. Kavieng in their nearest town where they canoe then bus to, to take cacao and other things to sell at market. No swimming due to crocs but a lovely mosey up the river in the tender. Enormous straight mangrove trees, amongst other, lined the river, which locals with a chainsaw were milling. When that wasn’t running and with the engine off to float back down in the current, it was so peaceful with only the squawking of a few parrots to disturb the silence.

After waking to a perfectly still, peaceful sea, I enjoyed the pink sunrise with the cumulus clouds crowding the horizon. We motored through the Albatross Channel, thick with mangroves with the strong current flowing against us. A few settlements lined the shore but not very hospitable for anchoring. Kabotteron Island (02.39.943S 150.41.144E) , opposite the channel, was a gorgeous spot to spend the hot afternoon. Kayaking, swimming and lounging under the shade sail kept everyone busy, before a squall with a heavy shower of rain sent us for shelter. Well adults anyway, the girls loved putting out buckets and playing in the rain!