Wednesday 19^th December

After a rocky trip due to the wind being on the nose and a disturbed sea, we arrived in Jayapura (02.32.207S. 140.43.391E), Indonesia, mid afternoon. We were all interested in the big differences between the two countries. We were greeted by colourful trimaran canoes, fish attracting devices (huge platforms strung underneath with nets), enormous ships in the harbour being loaded with containers, loud music and firecrackers everywhere. The city is wedged underneath steep foreboding hills around a semi circle harbour. Water littered with rubbish, unfortunately is not so good for swimming in the hot sun. Now we know why the world’s gyres are so full of plastic! We were all so pleased to see the crews from Totem and Sea Glass again and will catch them again, cross our fingers, for Christmas.

Jeremy has been trekking the streets of Jayapura becoming familiar with every official office in the city, to get the massive amount of paperwork required for this country. His patience has been amazing but he is blown away by the friendly helpful people who will take you where ever you need to go or find the right bus which hoon all over the city. English is limited so plenty of smiling and hand gestures are used. This afternoon the girls and I ventured onto shore for the first time. Our first sight was the stilt houses built over the water, a few planks tacked together, everyone living on top of each other, masses of rubbish floating underneath and a narrow crowded corridor leading to the road. I was amazed how well they took a serious culture shock in their stride. They got lots of touching and cheek pinching as the Indonesians are amazed by their blonde hair and fair skin. The open door van taxi weaving in and out of the motorbikes and other vans is far removed from Australian Road Standards and costs just 20 cents a trip! The girls were very pleased with the sight of apples and pears for the first time in months in the supermarket and loved watching the road side stalls selling toys and fireworks. Bernard, another friendly local showed us a good place to eat, very local fare, sat with us, hailed us a bus back and escorted us to the boat. What service from someone out for an afternoon walk!

We were woken at 4 .30 am by the Christian songs being blared from a loud speaker in competition with the Muslim call to prayer. Dark skinned, curly haired Papuans live along side lighter skinned, straight haired Indonesians. Clothes from the head scarves of Muslim girls to tight trousers and tops are seen. West Papua was given to the Indonesians in 1963 by the Dutch and many native Papuans would like to be independent. The Indonesians have moved many people from other areas, to here, to ensure the Indonesians are the greater population. Possibly why the police building is so huge and they have a suspicion of foreigners, making the road through Indonesia so difficult. Yesterday I had all sorts of questions about where we had been, where we are going  and to see the relevant paperwork from a boat load of officials from port authority, customs, immigration, quarantine and the maritime police!!!

Thursday 20^th December

The guy providing us with fuel today, who said he would turn up at 7 am actually turned up at 10.30 am. True Indo time! All fuelled up now and ready to head off tomorrow after clearing out of immigration, with the harbour authority and with a police certificate to say we are allowed to travel in Indonesia. Jeremy will be pleased not to see the inside of an office for awhile! While getting this document Selfie arrived as a translator. She said we needed to get lunch so she offered to cook us noodles; it would have been rude to refuse. Walking from the police building, along rickety planks above a filthy river or drain running into the sea, we arrived at her water front house. Not sure this is a plus when it is thick with litter! She kindly sat us on her porch and we feasted on delicious fried noodles, rice and melon drink followed by chocolate jelly.  I haven’t seen Jeremy eat so much for a long time! We again were a novelty with all the neighbours, very close in their small houses with a lane running down the middle. Wiring strung from house to house, the little shop next door to buy the noodles and cold water and everyone looking after each others children; all so foreign to our lives in Australia. But all so happy, smiling and welcoming!