Our position is 59:49.170N 22:57.940E

Distance covered 22.3 Nm

As the wind was forecast to be in the South, we were reluctant to follow the charted route out Northwards only to have to head south, into the wind, to get to our next destination, Hanko. A careful perusal of the chart showed sufficient water in the channel south from Oro harbour to get us to a latitude where we would just have to sail east, picking our way round the rocks, until we arrived at Hanko. Staying out of the main routes also meant a lesser likelihood of having to dodge ferries and other shipping.

The navigator was confident but the skipper was nervous as we set off with some trepidation ‘off-piste’ for the first time. Sailing anywhere else we would navigate our own courses without a second thought, but in this area where all the routes are marked as lines on the charts, with the least depth recorded on the line, everyone just seems to expect to sail along the lines. We made a conscious decision that, when sailing our own courses, we would endeavour, as far as possible, to stay in deep water on the basis that you are unlikely to find an unmarked submerged rock that would be a danger in the middle of an area that was 20m deep.

Leaving Oro

As on the way into Oro, on the way out southwards we found transits left by the military. One of them seemed a bit off the best track and we decided that was deliberate, to confuse the Russians if they tried to come in that way! We found our way out safely and were soon motoring through the rocks. Our best laid plans were foiled by the wind being too light for us to sail and the direction, of what there was, unhelpful. We did see our first seal, enjoying a shower on a rock that was awash, but, frustratingly, he swam off before we could photograph him.

This observation post was on the southernmost point of the island group. Presumably it was for spotting the Russians coming

These were the sort of unmarked rocks that made the skipper nervous as we slipped past

As this rock was completely bare of any vegetation we thought it must be a bleak experience living in this hut – not sure how they kept warm

Not sure whether the top blew off or whether it was replaced and they didn’t take away the rubbish

Hanko has two guest harbours, one expensive one on a small island served by a regular ferry going the 300yds to and from the mainland all day long, and the other one we stayed at. The advice was to get fuel on the way in, rather than queueing in the morning before leaving with everyone else who was also going, (and risking more boat rage incidents) so we took this advice, even though we had to queue up with everyone just coming in. We had set up for port side to while the other boat coming in was set up for starboard side to. That didn’t stop the guy in charge of the fuel pontoon trying to make us go into the spot we would have had to change everything over, while directing the other boat into the space we were aiming for. My reply to his comment that it would be easier was “not for us it wouldn’t”, as we steamed ahead to our pump of choice. The people on the other boat were quite happy to go where we had rejected and the fuel attendant just shrugged his shoulders as we sorted ourselves out. Once fuelled, we went over to the guest berths and tied up without incident. Later another British boat, Sirenuse, sailed by Janie and Ann, came in. We had not been in a harbour with another British boat since Karlskrona and as they were coming from the Baltic States and going to the islands we agreed to meet for a drink later and share experiences.

Us, and them in the distance

The ferry servicing the home of the rich

We needed to get some food, as supplies were running worryingly low, so we walked into town and found the tourist information office to get a map and some details of where we should go. Most attractions were shut by the time we had sorted this out, but not the supermarket, so once we had purchased some immediate essentials we went back to the boat to prepare to entertain Janie and Ann and to do some laundry.

We had a good time sharing our time in the islands and recommending some of the places we had been. They in turn told us about the places they had been in Estonia and made us look forward to when we will hopefully be there in August.

The following day we visited the church and went up the water tower as well as doing a serious shop, including non-perishables to have when we return in August with Kirsty and Tom, and some more laundry.  A fruit and vegetable stall had set up by the harbour office and we bought some fresh supplies there. In the evening we went for drinks on Sirenuse and more sharing of wider experiences, coming back in time to eat and go to bed ready to be up early the next morning.

the church from the outside

and the inside. It was one of the plainest churches we had been in. Apparently during the Russian occupation in 1940 they used it as a cinema. Ted is chatting with a 17 year old boy who had a scrappy piece of handwritten paper in his breast pocket declaring him to be a guide but in truth he knew little about the church and couldn’t answer all our questions about Finnish history but we talked about the Finnish education system and he was on firmer ground.

Hanko also has some lovely old houses

The water tower

And the views from the top