Our position is 58:22.686N 19:18.006E

Distance covered 41.1Nm

It was time we were heading south in earnest so today’s passage was to Gotska Sandon, apparently the most isolated island in the Baltic, situated 20Nm North of Gotland. We got up earlier than we had got used to in anticipation of a full days sail.

The morning was bright. No sign of the previous day’s fog, thank heavens, and enough wind to motor sail initially, strengthening sufficiently to allow the engine to be turned off later. Once out at sea we were aware of sailing through clouds of algal bloom, evidence that the Baltic is still being environmentally challenged. It was quite distressing to see the extent of it.

Algal bloom

Apart from this the passage was notable for how little we saw. There was practically no shipping, only one other yacht, going in the opposite direction and no wildlife. As we were closing the island we were buzzed by a light aeroplane, but didn’t know if he was just out for a joyride or looking for a specific yacht. Ted kept active by fixing some problems with the holding tank pump, but otherwise nothing exciting happened.

Ted at work in the cockpit locker

The one ship that came close and the light aeroplane

The island differs from all the ones we had seen to date in that it is sandy rather than rocky, but still forested. It also has no harbour. Visiting yachts just anchor along the leeward side (whichever it is) and allegedly there can be as many as 40 at any one time there. As we closed the shore there was one other yacht and a motor boat anchored but the motor boat left as we approached. 

The chart showed a seal sanctuary half way along the side we had chosen as the most likely place to anchor and we saw seals swimming off the beach as well as lying on it amongst clouds of cormorants.  After anchoring we blew up the dinghy and went ashore to see if we could get closer but there were many signs keeping people away (as far as we could tell – they were in Swedish) so we had a nice walk along the beach and went back to the boat for dinner in the cockpit as the sun went down, to the accompaniment of the plaintive cries of the seals.

A proper sandy beach

Seals and cormorants. The seals were more audible than visible

I seem to be looking forward to the row back more than Ted

Even though I was rowing

Not as many boats in the anchorage as we had been used to

And the sun went down as we ate dinner.