Hambourgersund Fjord 65:37.62N 52:47.40W

mollihawk's shadow
eddie nicholson
Tue 5 Aug 2014 18:25
Monday saw a late start and the local residents of whom there are hopefully none had no sleep as they would have been up most of the night listening to a Irish styled wake sing song encouraged by a bottle of whiskey and prompted by Margret O’M  who supplied the song book!
We explored the shores of a few islands looking for the mussel beds which must be found but are not in the usual Irish places, they lie singly on the sea bed and not in clumps attached to the rocks. Mike caught a few more Cod for dinner and we replaced a few Cod fillets from the jar of Roll mop herring  to see what that produced. Sauced Cod, it could be a first! the Cods liver fried on toast was good but i couldn’t help thinking of Clarice in Hanibal Lecture!
 
The  late afternoon saw us haul anchor and sail for Appamuit at the entrance to the Hamborgersund also known as Tunu.
We have arrived in dense fog at midnight and saw our first bit of darkness for a while. With an early night (2am) we set off at 07.00 the next morning for Hamborger Sound.
The fjord was a wonderful sight as we motored along with its high banks of sheer rock on either side but the fog lingered over the tops of the mountains keeping the best view till we stopped by a racing waterfall which was flowing from the lake above into our fjord. The fog cleared and the views were spectacular, the jagged mountain tops with glaciers forcing their, way through in places and the water in the lake a turquoise colour (last seen in Lake Louise Calgary) but with so many midge and mozzie flying around us no photo will do justice to the scenery. The bug nets are an essential part of the walking kit.
 
After a wonderful walk ashore as the high Fog lifted 3 members of the crew plunged into the water for a refreshing swim, ( we don’t like to name and shame the 2 who were too sensible to get wet), one member wearing a lime green Borat mankini (presented to him by his friend and neighbour) an instruction from the skipper was that camera’s were forbidden! this shock treatment was rewarded by a large glass of Gin-a-say-quay and Tonic before a grilled Cod Lunch while slowly motoring our way back through the fjord to the open sea.
The plan now is to continue South now for 2 nights to Nanortalik for a refuel and restock 400 miles away and very close to the much talked about Prins Christian Sund
 
P.S. as i finished this blog a call came to get up on deck. A family of Humpbacks, a mother,a calf and Daddy whale right in front of us. Mike, Pat and Nick were in the dinghy en route to see a church poised on a rock in the middle of no-where when  their spumes of spray appeared.
We turned off the engine and floated when they swam right alongside us showing us that they were in fact bigger and mightier than we were! It’s impossible to describe the feeling as they glide by so effortlessly and their tail width was wider than our beam at more than 5 metres. All the while the dinghy was less than 100m away filming the experience!