Mayreau, Union Island and Grenada, June-July 2018
Mayreau, Union Island and Grenada June, July 2018 Crew: Ken Robertson, Jenny Thomas Thursday 26 June: Bequia to Mayreau, Salt Whistle Bay, Position: 12038.86’N, 061023.48’W, 25 miles, 4.66 hrs, 5.4 knots average speed, 1.8 engine hrs. Total Miles since Falmouth, Aug 2016: 11013 Wow, over 11,000 nautical miles since departing the UK – not bad for an average speed often less than 5 knots (5.75mph). This calculates to approximately 2202.6 hrs of journey time on Lady Rebel since Falmouth. Yikes! For the sailors amongst you, we had fun and games trying to set up our Hydrovane self steering as the gusts were very strong and very frequent constantly changing the balance of the boat which meant constantly changing the sail trim. With the wind generator at the menders and our solar power reduced due to the increase in rain squalls we were keen to conserve battery power by using the Hydrovane that utilises wind power, as opposed to the autopilot that runs off the batteries. Our patience wore thin that day so we reverted to hand steering the boat!! Salt Whistle Bay in Mayreau was a picture postcard scene. A long sandy beach edged with palm trees, clear water lapping up against brightly coloured fishing boats dotted along the shoreline, secured on lengths of rope tied to a tree. Stalls of hand-made jewellery, sundresses, hats and t-shirts were in amongst the palm trees plus wooden shacks selling beers and cocktails dotted here and there (you get the picture!).
Salt Whistle Bay from Lady Rebel at anchor
We were a little dubious about leaving the boat unoccupied as had heard from friends that two boats were recently boarded at night; one robbed of money from next to a sleeping crew member and the other robbed of their dinghy, whilst they too were on board playing cards! We spoke to Deron about this – a local boat boy who had come out to meet us in his dinghy to offer us any assistance and to advise us which bar was best (the one he works at, of course!). He explained the stolen dinghy had been found on the neighbouring Union Island and the robbers caught – one local man and one from St Vincent. We decided we’d risk leaving the boat and go ashore, especially now we have additional locks, but we would stay within viewing distance and keep our eyes peeled. We would also ensure we were back before dark and lock ourselves well and truly in overnight.
The barefooted stroll to the end of the beach was wonderful; so peaceful. Canouan and Tobago Cays were clearly visible in the distance, however, the windward shoreline was full of Sargassum, a type of seaweed that is filling the ocean in this part of the World. It is all we catch with our fishing line these days, certainly not edible! It is becoming a major problem in the Caribbean and it stinks!
At ‘The Last Bar Before The Jungle’, one of the locals showed us the procedure for corn/salting fish. She explained that the fish that isn’t sold fresh is salted and dried to preserve it, then made into soups, stews and other local dishes. We have yet to try this salted/corn fish. To be honest, it doesn’t look that appealing - maybe due to all the flies that were hovering around during the three day procedure!!
Salt/Corn fish drying That night was very uncomfortable with the horrendous rolling from the swell that had suddenly developed in the bay. We can only assume it was from the current switching direction as it hadn’t been evident during the day. I read in the saloon for most of the night armed with my pepper spray, with one ear listening out for intruders. Thankfully non came!! Wednesday 27 June – Mayreau to Union Island – Clifton. With the wind against us we motored the 5 miles to Clifton on the South side of Union Island and utilised the engine power to run our water-maker. An ideal opportunity to top up our tanks for a couple of hours.
Passing Palm Island Coming into Clifton, Union Island We had a mare of a time trying to anchor. First trying to find a space and second trying to get a hold. Not happy with the holding first time around we lifted the anchor only to find two car tyres tied together with old rope hooked onto the anchor. No wonder the anchor hadn’t dug into the seabed! Stupidly I nearly lost the boat hook and me overboard whilst freeing them from our anchor – the weight was more than I expected!! Luckily a boat was just leaving a better spot, so, much to the annoyance of the local mooring buoy owners who obviously wanted us to pick up one of their buoys for a fee, telling us there was no way our anchor would hold – either the bottom was too rocky or covered in junk - we anchored and held successfully. Unnerved by hooking the tyres we snorkelled to check the anchor and it was dug in beautifully, so we continued on to snorkel the nearby reef. It was a little murky and not much sea life, but it was good to have a decent swim.
After a quick wander around the pleasant, small town and visit to the local fruit and veg market we stopped at the yacht club for a drink and were recommended a trip to Happy Island, just across the bay in the dinghy. A local guy had made a tiny island out of used conch shells (and concrete), built a bar on the top, made superb rum punches, played great music and employed a couple of talented locals to entertain his customers with a kite surfing demonstration. It was well worth the visit. A great party atmosphere and amazingly talented kite surfers. One of their party tricks was to come zooming up to the island, stop right at the edge, grab a beer from a party-goer’s hand, zoom off again and a few minutes later return with the empty beer bottle!!
The next day Ken went ashore to ‘check-out’ of St Vincent and the Grenadines, while I got the boat ready to depart including cleaning out the water inlet filters of the Sargassum seaweed!
Ken got absolutely drenched in a huge downpour coming back. We had 24 hours to leave the island, so once the storm had blown through we motored the 5 miles around to Chatham Bay on the sheltered West coast of Union Island, making water once again, on route. It was beautiful and only 5 other boats occupied the large half moon bay.
Anchoring went smoothly but we still snorkelled to check it had dug in sufficiently and then carried on to the rocky shore where we saw an amazing amount of different species of fish and at least 15 lobsters in the small area we explored. We think the lobsters knew it is was out of catching season as they happily waved their spiny claws at us and stared us out from under their hidey-hole rocks!
Two more lobsters We rarely eat out but had been recommended a beach restaurant called ‘Shark Attack’. Unfortunately ‘Shark Attack’ was shut as now out of season and only one bar was open – Boll Heads! After a superb meal there we called by a boat called ‘Charge-Up’ meaning ‘drunk’ owned by a couple from Tobago who we’d met on Happy Island. They recommended we sail to beautiful Tobago and have offered to show us around if we do!
Friday 29 June – Union Island to Grenada, Prickly Bay, 48 miles, 8.16 hrs, 2.5 engine hrs, 5.7 knots average speed. Total miles since Falmouth 11071. Having visited Grenada in January last year, it is one of our favourite islands in the Caribbean. Prickly Bay gave us good access to all areas and is known for its big posh houses on the headland! The anchorage was much busier this time around due to the time of year being hurricane season. This is generally a safer haven, with hurricanes tending (not always!) to hit further North. We would however keep an eye on the forecast and be prepared to ‘leg-it’ further South to Trinidad or West to Bonaire - the ‘B’ of the ABC Islands.
Our plan was to be lifted at Spice Island Marine Services, where we were hauled last year, to have Lady Rebel’s bottom painted, the propeller straightened, broken mizzen boom fixed, dinghy platform welded and strengthened, gooseneck straightened, safety bars made for the companion way and the rudder bracket re-done (this was under warranty as was one of the jobs the marina did for us last year and required some adjustment). Our lift was on Monday so over the weekend we did some boat chores plus met up with Steve and Dee, catamaran La Mischief, whom we’d met on the Barbados 50 rally but not seen since before Christmas. It was great to catch up with them after so long, frequent a couple of beach bars during Sunday afternoon and finish on Hog Island for a traditional Sunday evening cruisers meet! The lift out went smoothly and we were soon ploughing through our list of jobs. TechNick was on the case with the propeller and boom and the marina were soon sanding, painting (between rainstorms) and fixing the rudder.
Being on the hard is ok short term, the disadvantages being the lack of air flow intensifying the heat plus multiplying the number of biting mosquitos, also having to pee in a bucket during the night! Washing up gets done in a bucket (not the same bucket) and we can’t run the engine or generator for hot water. The yard have decent showers and laundry facilities, plus a good dinghy dock so we could at least get out and about in the dinghy. The marina has a bar that was showing the football World Cup and although Ken and I are not particularly footy fans, it was good to be able to watch England play (until they were knocked out!).
July 4th we had a pot luck meet, again on Hog Island, to celebrate American Independence Day. Cruisers and locals take a dish to share, a bbq is fired up and the drinks flow. It was somewhat quieter than last 4th of July where we celebrated in Bristol, Rhode Island, USA! We didn’t get the amazing firework displays, live bands playing and street parades, but we met some interesting locals and fellow cruisers! Whilst the marina and TechNick were seeing to Lady Rebel’s needs we were too – anode changes, bow-thruster propellers sanded and painted, port holes re-sealed plus numerous other essential bits and pieces!
New Rudder Bracket
Friday 6 July hurricane Beryl became a possible threat. The yard attached hurricane straps to secure us firmly to the ground! Fortunately Beryl headed up North losing wind strength as she went and no harm was done.
A refreshing change from boat chores was ‘The Hash’. A boat, called ‘The Rhum Runner’ took well over 100 hashers, mainly locals, but cruisers also, from St George’s to Grand Anse Beach, where we disembarked and followed a trail made with flour through villages and across country. Different signs on the ground informs you if you are heading in the right direction or if you have been ‘led up the garden path’ – literally in some cases! If you hear “On On” from up ahead you know you are on the right track. It was great to see parts of Grenada off the beaten track that we’d not see otherwise and to meet and chat to the locals. The hash lasted for about an hour, the total trip about 4 hrs. A swim to cool off, then drinking and dancing was enjoyed by all on the return leg. Hashers with new shoes have to drink beer out of them (wise to wear sandals to avoid being picked upon) and virgin hashers get unexpectedly squirted in beer whilst collecting their hash certificates!! Rugby, netball and young farmers tours all sprang to mind!!
Exactly a week later we were due to be launched, the hoist moving us to TechNick’s workshop on route, in order to have the dinghy platform welded. Unfortunately the work wasn’t complete by 1600 hrs when the guys finish for the day, so we spent the night ashore in the slings, suspended in mid air!
By 0900 hrs next morning we were launched and anchored in Prickly Bay, next to La Mischief. It was windy and rolly but we refitted the mizzen boom and sail and generally made Lady Rebel seaworthy, ship-shape and Bristol fashion.
Well I didn’t know that: Bristol has been an important English seaport for more than a thousand years. The city is actually several miles from the sea and stands on the estuary of the River Avon. Bristol's harbour has one of the most variable tidal flows anywhere in the world and the water level can vary by more than 30 feet between tides. Ships that were moored there were beached at each low tide. Consequently they had to be of sturdy construction and the goods in their holds needed to be securely stowed, hence ship-shape and Bristol fashion! That evening we met up with Ian and Ann from Tourterelle (Barbados 50 Rally friends) who we’d not seen since January plus Steve and Dee from La Mischief, and enjoyed a meal and music jam by fellow cruisers at Taffy’s Bar.
Ann, Steve, Dee, Ian, Ken, J – Little Dipple Restaurant overlooking Woburn Bay A great place to watch England V Croatia in the football World Cup semi-finals was Grenada Beer Company, thus killing two birds with one stone – Ken (and Steve from La Mischief) could sample lots of different beers at the brewery whilst watching the game. Perfect, that is until England lost.
Beer Vats Ken and Steve watching the footy Before leaving Grenada we thought another hash ‘a must do’. The Bastille Day Hash met at beautiful Morne Rouge, BBC Beach), close to St George’s. It was a 3 mile walk following a paper trail, with stunning views over Prickly Bay, True Blue Bay, Grand Anse and Morne Rouge Beach.
The ceremony for virgin hashers occurred once everyone had returned back to the beach. Ian and Ann (Tourterelle) were virgins and were duly sprayed with beer. Ann received a double dose, plus had to drink beer with her arm in a plastic tube as it was her Birthday! A great day was had by all.
Next stop: Tyrell Bay, Carriacou |
Cheering on England
