Blog Update

Inga
Fri 27 Feb 2015 15:42
Hello All,
Having faithfully kept up the blog on our Atlantic crossing, Brian has moved on to other things and suggested I (Coralie) take over.  That explains the long silence, and erratic nature of future contributions.  Also, I’ll try to be as brief and succinct, as Brian was.  But don’t count on it.
 
At the end of the crossing, Antigua’s English Harbour was the perfect landfall.  We dropped anchor off Galleon Beach, a short dingy ride from the beautifully restored Nelsons Dockyard and the many bars and restaurants along the road beyond it’s gates.  We chose ‘Trapas’  for our celebratory meal.  Steaks, local fish, and coconut icecream, eaten at a level table with proper knives and forks. Bliss.
After a couple of days R&R, Trish left for the UK where Jim and her Dad were waiting. We moved to the Slipway boatyard where the local mechanic finally fixed the engine. Tim stayed another week, before meeting his girlfriend Liz  and heading off for 2weeks’ ‘proper’ holiday.  Ironically this included 5 days on a chartered yacht in the BVI’s.
We couldn’t have made the crossing without our crew and one of the best aspects of the trip for me was cementing one old friendship (Trish) and establishing another (Tim).  We left English Harbour and Antigua via Jolly Harbour and St John’s and began our island cruising around the 25th.
 
Since then we have sailed North, stopping off at the islands on the way.  All of them different, some more ‘authentic’ than others.  We prefer the quieter islands.  Tiny Barbuda was the perfect beginning.  Its 1600 souls are outnumbered by the flambouyant frigate birds.  The birds prefer high density housing in the mangroves on the lagoon, we took a boat trip with a guide.  The locals prefer some peace and quiet and  can simply choose a plot to build on for free, so long as they were born on the island. The land is theirs for 50 years which can then extended for another 50 and so on.  The capital runs to one main street and ‘Madison’ square, where on Fridays and Saturdays, nobody cooks but roadside BBQ’s offer chicken, ribs, rice, chips and Salad and cakes - we tucked in.
We loved Nevis island but arrived on a Sunday when everywhere was closed apart from the churches in the morning and in the afternoon everyone relaxed in the sun.  Monday is business as usual and we hired a car to explore.  Again a lovely mixture of friendly residents, and we enjoyed stocking up at local stalls, visiting the Botanic gardens in the grounds of an old colonial style house, and two plantation houses in the cooler highlands, with lovely gardens and restaurants. US $250 - $500 a night will get you a room or a cottage here, not including meals.  But what an experience.
 
To Basseterre on Kitts briefly, to stock up -  then on to(French) St. Barts for about 5 days.  Anchored in the bay at Gustavia, the main port, or the adjacent bay of Colombier - one of my favourites because it was only accessible by boat or foot. Turtles surfaced regularly and  we continue to see them wherever we anchor.  Predominantly white and rich it’s not so typical, but still beautiful, with many restored houses.  We explored by car again covering as much ground in reverse as forwards due to the hidden turnings, poor map and non existent signs. Nevertheless, we found all of the many beaches. Food shopping can be frustrating so we enjoyed stocking up at the local supermarket which had everything including French wine.   Fresh meat is often hard to find and fruit and veg pretty basic.
 
Next stop Marigot Bay in the French half of St. Martins, the other half being Dutch. Much busier and the first place we’ve been warned to ‘lock it or lose it’ A large number of long distance cruisers, with many Canadians spend time here - often to get work done on the Dutch side.
We watched the Mardi Gras Carnival Parade, led by a troupe of bored teens, followed by progressively livelier groups until the last ones which were magnificent.  The sound from the banks of amplifiers was unbelievable.
 
We are now anchored in Load Bay on Anguilla - a mere 10 miles from St. Martins but It couldn’t be more different.  The beach is white sand with beach bars/restaurants dotted along. Behind that, one street, a few houses and a shop, which they open up when you go to find them .  There are lots of boats anchored in the bay, partly because to anchor anywhere else requires a permit, renewable daily.  Yesterday, armed with our permit, we sailed to Sandy island - a tiny lump of sand with a few palm trees and a restaurant, protected by reefs which require careful negotiation by dingy but are great for snorkelling.  We saw our first proper tropical fish, in vivid blues and yellows. Nearby Prickly Pear Cay, wasn’t so successful.  In the 2 miles from Sandy Island, the throttle cable broke and anchoring was too problematical, so we headed for a less hazardous bay and then limped home, thanks, apparently, to an elastic band.
We spent today on our home beach and tomorrow is another hirecar day.  Perhaps we’ll finish off with a meal at a beach bar...............…we didn’t - too tired after snorkelling etc. - so ate on board.
 
Our friends David and Susan Simpson on ‘Enchantress’ arrived in St. Martin yesterday to get some work done.  We last saw them when we waved them off from Gibraltar and have been trailing behind them ever since.  We will sail over to spend a couple of days with them and get a few repairs done..
Every island requires entry and exit fees and often anchorage charges as well.  So when we revisit S. Martin, we’ll have to go through the whole procedure again.
 
Well, for a first effort that was brief and succinct don’t you think?
but it comes with best wishes
Coralie and Brian
 
 
 
 
    
 
 
 
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