20th August 2014

16:53:14S

168:31:75E

After the cockroach hunt we frantically searched the boat for the hopefully now very dead roach, having sprayed every nook and cranny…. to no avail but suddenly Imo shouted I can hear a whale and there it was the huge whoosh and sigh of a humpback whale visiting these waters from the Antarctic to mate.  It was pitch dark with only the stars and again we heard the blow, torches were shone around and yes we saw the shiny silvery back of the huge whale. We so wanted her to stay and played Leonard Cohen but that clearly wasn't her style and she left with a couple more blows and sighs. Perfect. 

New Hebrides described and named by Cook is a far better name for these green, verdant, steep islands, shrouded in mists with grey waters and black sand.  Today has been misty, calm and muggy all very Scottish. Tim began the day with porridge and we could almost hear the lilt of the bagpipes as we made our way up the islands in the rain.

We are anchored off Tongula….somewhere a very long way from the claws of tourism.  The book says there's a wall we can dive that's the best. We explored in the dinghy and went ashore walking along the black volcanic sand beneath the dense forests of creepers and vines, so many lovely burbling birds.  We needed to find the chief to ask if we can dive and more important to pay our dues.

 Now which way is the chief….?

These islanders were friendly having removed people from their menu which is a relief!

They speak pidgin which luckily Tim is fluent in so soon we were on our way to see Big Chief Sitonmyballs.

Nice alternative job prospects Tim.

Eventually we met John and his son who gave us some fruit and produced a mobile phone, called the chief who will come and meet us at dawn.  Love it.

Meanwhile we were besieged by mozzies and then Andrew lost his all singing - all dancing sunglasses in the surf while launching the dinghy…..a costly expedition resulting in 2 wet cameras and lost glasses.

Back on board its war….mozzies, flying ants not to mention any roaches….the nearer you get tho Australia the nastier the wildlife.

It's amazingly peaceful here so far from the hurly burly. Night night.

S/Y HEBE
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