As we have had a few weeks in these wonderful islands we have been revisiting some of the places we saw five years ago and a few new ones beside. The weather has not been as good as our last visit; we have had more wind than we remember and more rain. Of course, the rain is of the warm sort so is no great hardship but this strong wind does make for some hard passages. The islands are said to be called the Windward Islands because the British had to beat to windward to get from their southern colonies when sailing to those further north. This only makes partial sense as coming south the islands are relatively downwind and easy to sail to. However, our passages have been northerly ones and consequently hard sailing.

West Coast of Grenada

One of the highlights of our stay in Grenada was a tour of the island in the company of some other yachties.

The Careenage at St Georges, Grenada’s Capital

Our driver took us right around the island visiting a number of interesting sites including this ramshackle distillery making rum that is 83% alcohol. The stuff is so dangerous that you are not permitted to take it on an aeroplane!

This was a leap into the island’s past; the whole enterprise has been going continuously since the mid-18^th century. Most of the old machinery is still used and is driven as it was originally by this water wheel imported from England many moons ago.

The place employs 90 people including these chaps who have the dangerous job of feeding the cane into the jaws of the crusher.

One slip and whoosh! The whole operation was incredibly primitive and totally unchanged, perhaps how things might have been in similar factories in the UK two centuries ago. It was a good example of using renewable energy and manpower to good effect albeit in producing something almost undrinkable and with little respect for health and safety!

Rather more to our taste was a relatively high tech chocolate factory using locally grown cocoa, next door to this pretty house. The chocolate is totally delicious but you will have to come here to sample it yourself.

The hillsides of Grenada and the other islands are covered by colourful houses like these with well-tended gardens. They do have the advantage that anything seems to grow and the plants are usually covered in flowers or fruit.

While in St Vincent we visited 2 gardens. One of these was established high in the mountains by an Englishman 20 years ago and now is a real Garden of Eden. Sited in a valley surrounded by steep slopes, a network of paths winds its way through a riot of colour with nothing but the sounds of running water and the twittering of birds.

The other garden we visited was also established by an Englishman but rather longer ago. The St Vincent Botanical Garden claims to be the oldest in the western hemisphere and still has a Breadfruit tree directly descended from those brought here originally by Capt. Bligh. The tour of the garden was slightly spoilt by a guide who was keener on sticking to his well learned script than engaging in conversation. He also slightly annoyed me by addressing us both as “ladies” rather too often!

However, most of the people of these islands are just delightful. This lady sold us some of her produce and after a bit of banter was happy to have her photo taken.

Relaxed or what!

As I write this we are in St Lucia having visited Carriacou, Union Island, Tobago Cays, St Vincent and Petit Nevis en route. The Tobago Cays were lovely and we swam with young green turtles that feed on the sea grasses there but our photos are poor as the weather was just not up to much. We had a windy sail here yesterday and although the wind has died down, the weather remains cloudy and the snorkelling less good as a result……but we are not complaining, it is still a wonderful cruising destination.

The Pitons in St Lucia are just as photogenic as ever

as was this lizard.

Apart from the green turtles in Tobago Cays, St Lucia has also given us our best snorkelling whilst anchoring under Pigeon Island in Rodney Bay.

Probably the most colourful character around the anchorage is Gregory the floating fruit and veg vendor, otherwise known as ‘Flag Man’, you can just see him in the picture below.

As well as being colourful his craft is probably the most unseaworthy vessel we have ever seen but his produce and sense of humour are excellent. We first met Gregory five years ago when we stocked up at St Lucia ready for crossing the Caribbean Sea to Columbia. It has been a pleasure to meet him again and know that he is still doing good business.