Fiji to Vanuatu
Gaviota
Sun 5 Oct 2014 22:42
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20:14.348S 169:46.762E
We checked out of Fiji on Friday, 26th
September. Once checked out you have 24 hours to clear Fijian
waters. We left Vuda Marina and anchored behind Musket Cove a good
stepping off point for the sail to Vanuatu. The plan was to leave first
thing Saturday morning. Syd got down the local weather and it showed a
nasty low pressure over Vanuatu with strong winds but it was predicted to head
South to pick up strength and batter New Zealand so we decided to postpone our
leaving to Sunday. We left Sunday morning 8.30 am and motored
out past the famous surf break Cloudbreak off Tavarua Island, it was
perfect conditions, sun, blue sky and blue sea. As we got out the wind
picked up and was blowing from the North East (not predicted) but perfect for
the start of the crossing so we flew on on a beam reach averaging 6 knots.
Fishing line out and complete with Curly's famous lure it was'nt long before we
caught a good sized Mahe Mahe, then later in the day a second much larger Mahe
Mahe. Syd's fishing triumphs are becoming a regular occurence since he
parted with $50 for 2 special 'guaranteed to catch' fish lures. Fresh fish
and stir fried veg a la Syd for T and end of a perfect sailing day. Of
course this good feeling was bound not to last. I noticed clouds building
on my watch and about 10.00pm the speed shot up from 6.5 to 7.5 knots, and the
wind started to swing round to the South (again not forecasted!) so I woke Syd
and we jibed and reduced sail, so it was close hauled and a battle. Seas
were building and the sky was ominously getting blacker, the wind howled and on
we lurched and banged. Wind was increasing and heading up to 25 knots so 3
reefs in mainsail and a tiny bit of Genoa and we were hurtling along then the
rain started, it bucketed it down. Syd knew he was in for a wet cold
sleepless night as the temperature had plumetted, so we both huddled up in full
oilskins and tried without success to keep warm. I gave up and went to bed
leaving poor Syd master of the seas to do battle.
Day 2 was even worse, the seas had built to massive
proportions and waves were crashing over the boat proving that there are far to
many leaking hatches! We both felt seasick, I don't think I have ever
known Syd to be so quiet. On we lurched. The frustrating thing was
that even with that strong wind the waves were stopping us and slowing us
down. It started to lessen later in the day but it was still very cold and
we were both pretty miserable.
Day 3 and the South wind continued but we had
managed to get back on course and the ETA was for middayish the following
day.
Land Ahoy and the little island of Anatom, Vanuatu
started to grow before us, with its angry looking reefs protecting it and
preventing the crashing seas from entering. We sailed in through the reef
and dropped anchor - all alone, in front of Inyeug Island (known to the
cruise ships that visit as Mystery Island). Relieved to have arrived in
one piece (other than having lost yet more metal clips that hold the mainsail
into the groove of the mast).
First impressions, a bit too green (rain!), much
too cold but gorgeous scenery and Inyeug Island a perfect picture postcard
desert Island.
Early morning call next day from Jessie the local
policeman, he was just there to chill with us for a while and seemed quite happy
to sit and drink juice and consume our only packet of chocolate chip
cookies! Next visitors Customs and Immigration 2 jolly looking rotund men
who again seemed more interested in a social call than formalities. As we
had no local money to pay them we headed into the 'one horse Town' (literally
they have one horse but he was the most well fed splendid looking horse I have
seen in all our travels!) to find the Bank which was a still to be completed
impressive brand new stone building that the locals had taken to going to and
just hanging around in the porch it was such a novelty to them.
Slight problem the Bank had no card machine and
only exchanged cash, so it was back to the boat to scrape together $US. We
were still knackered so did not return to Town again and next morning had
another visit from Customs and Immigration, this time they both made themselves
very comfortable in the cockpit and demanded a beer then proceeded to suggest
that if we did not have the money we could pay them in Whisky!!!! Sadly we
had no whisky so it had to be $US but we know if we ever visit these remote
islands again it is much cheaper to pay your entry fees in alcohol!
Once free of visitors we headed over to Mystery
Island to spend an afternoon alone enjoying the crystal clear snorkelling before
the influx of 2,000 cruise ship passengers the following day. It is the
only income for the locals of the Town and they all head over there with
anything they have to sell when the cruise ships arrive. The following
morning we went back to Mystery Island to see what it was like with 2,000 extra
visitors - definitely NOT good.
Mystery Island got its name from a stop Queen
Elizabeth made on her tour to Vanuatu (then New Hebrides) in the 1970's.
Britannia stopped for the Queen and Prince Philip to swim off the island and the
story goes Prince Philip threw some of the crystal clear water up in the air (no
doubt drowning the Queen) and declared it to be a mystery. Probably a tall
story but the name intrigued the Cruise Ship companies enough for them to add it
to their Itineraries and now Celebrity and P & 0 make regular visits giving
their passengers a day on a desert island in the middle of nowhere. It has also
meant the entire area is a Marine Reserve.
The strong winds have returned with vengeance but
we have decided there is not time to see any more of Vanuatu and its 83 islands
(we realise now that to really see each of these groups of islands you need a
whole season for each one). So we are leaving for Noumea, the capital of
New Caledonia, a total contrast to here as it is labelled the most sophisticated
City in the South Pacific. A 250 mile sail but we need some East in the
wind! It is French governed so we are looking forward to a Carrefour and
getting some food treats again. Then it is the final 800 mile leg of this epic
year of travel, Brisbane Australia.
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