Birds Galore Rio Dulce Gorge & Cayo Quemado 15:46.013N 88:49.672W

Five Islands
John & Sue
Fri 3 Apr 2015 16:16

Motoring up the Rio Dulce we came upon hundreds of birds, mainly Pelicans, Egrets and Cormorants. They were just floating around and would occasionally duck their bills in the water and come up with a fish. It was astonishing to see so many birds and mainly in the first half the gorge. We later found out that during the dry season the salt water starts to flow up the river and the fresh water recedes, which kills fresh water and salt water fish alike. The birds can just float around and eat the dying fish. We had noticed a number of dead small fish floating past in Livingston but are unaware of the reason.


Birds everywhere


Either floating or roosting


Meal time Cormorant style

Some Pelicans were a bit slow to get out of our way. Maybe they had had so much to eat they were a little heavy for flight.



Majestic Egret



Sort of majestic pelican

We motored at about 5.5kts up the gorge, around a few fishing pots, taking about 1hr 25mins to do the 8Nms from Livingston to Cayo Quemado Marina.


There are vandals everywhere even here. The white walls of the gorge have been graffitied


Traditional dugout canoes


Not so traditional dugout of the fibreglass variety but the paddles are hand crafted. These kids had a load of firewood. Obviously this is one of their chores.

Cayo Quemado is a very protected little bay, the first of 3 bays on the left as you enter the Golfete. The marina has been here for about 8 years and offers side tie docks with 110v electrical outlets. There is no water or 30/50amp plugs supplied but potable water is available upon request. The dockage cost is Q100 per night. They also have long term storage and are INGUAT registered. The restaurant does basic but tasty meals and have a Q50 special each day. It is the only place on the Rio that will FILL your glass to the top when you ask for a wine. Mavis and Morris and 7 local families own, run and maintain the marina. It's out of the way and very relaxing and just the place to spend 5 nights before we head back up the river into the Semana Santa madness.


Tom, the local rigger and sail repairer climbs to the top of the mast to inspect the rigging. He climbed the mast practically unaided by pulling himself up on the halyard. Damian assisted from the deck. These guys also took down our Genoa and Mainsail. Everything done in an hour. It would have taken us all day and then some.


The ladies that run the restaurant next door clean fresh fish


The predicted cold front rolls right past us on Friday afternoon. A little bit of wind, 5 spots of rain and that was it. It was somewhat stronger further up the river. We finally got rain on Saturday night that was enough to wash the decks of salt and put 4 jerry cans into the water tank.


Locally carved boat and paddle ornament bought for Q100. The ladies and young girls come around each day with tortillas and every second day with coconut bread rolls. The one thing that they ask for is 'cookies' and soda/coca cola. I will have to remember to stock up before coming down next time.


We went dinghy exploring and found a little creek just near the marina. Water lilies greeted us as we entered. Soooo pretty


The area around the marina is a nature reserve and a number of conservation groups are helping to protect and maintain the forest/jungle/wetlands.


There are many local families living up the creek. A child swings in the hammock while another one (behind the tree) was transferring empty bottles into crates.


The 'Crows Nest' docks are located at the end of the main lagoon. Kelly and Chris from 'Seakist Services' look after boats while their owners are away (Chris looks after our boat at RAM Marina while we are in Australia). It is another little piece of paradise.


The lagoon is a popular anchorage. 'Lonely Planet' and 'Jonathon' sitting pretty.