Photo Catchup Providencia to Rio Dulce June July 2013

Five Islands
John & Sue
Sat 13 Jul 2013 18:38
Our last week has been busy doing boat stuff. We have had 5 deck hatches removed and resealed by a local tradesman called Carlos Lopez (3154 8308) - no more drips! He has given us a reasonable quote on replacing all the floors. His sample looked really nice but we will make a decision when we get back from Oz. We have also had the cockpit measured up for new clears/storm covers by AquaMarine Upholstery Shop as the original ones are falling to pieces and don't keep much water out. John has cleaned the jets in the outboard and it is now running much better. We have booked flights back to the USA so are starting to get excited about going home. There is still a number of boat projects we want to complete before then though and may have some time to do a bit of site seeing.

We have met several other cruisers at the marina and enjoyed a BBQ Ribs dinner, impromptu drinks on S/V Mary Ann with Vivienne and Olivier and Movie night at the marina restaurant. Last night we went to dinner at a Mexican/Australian restaurant with Dani & Jens. Great food and wonderful atmosphere. Tonight is Dani's birthday so we are heading around to Monkey Bay Marina for a potluck dinner.

The following photos commence with our last few days in Providencia and bring us up to date.

Dani in one of the gardens we visited on Providencia where plants used in traditional medicine are being grown.

The group of 'yachties' visiting another garden/farm on Providencia. Note the bush mangoes in the background. They were stringy but the flavour was really good and the Lady's Finger bananas were soooo delicious.

The 4 entrants for the Princess of the Cultural Festival. The Festival ran for 4 days but the locals practiced the festival mood for a few days before as well.

The current reigning Princess

Part of the Festival centred around the water and sailing. The race started at the southern end of the island where the crews had to choose a sail, hoist it and then sail up the coast, through the anchorage and finish near the town dock.

They came quite close as they tacked in and around the anchored yachts.

Each sail boat was followed by a chase boat. Their job is to pick up the crew if the boat overturns (not uncommon) or take crew members off in the even the wind was too light. This didn't happen this year as the wind was a steady 15kts gusting to 20kts. This is when the boat would heel and it was all they could do to keep the boat from going over too far and filling with water.

Heeling in a wind gust. One of the crew are there just to bail the water out.

But sometimes the sail/helmsman didn't spill the wind in time….

and everyone ended up in the drink.


The Princesses were paraded around the harbour standing at the prow of Launcha's, their dresses blowing in the wind.

Then the Launcha's had a play. Tilted outboard engines made impressive water fountains and were used frequently to wet the occupants of other boats. They left us alone thank goodness as we would have been sitting ducks.

There were boats going everywhere - mayhem

Some at a great rate of knots

And of course when you have 2 or more boats on the water together there is always a race.

Or just the thrill of speed. My Dad would have enjoyed this spectacle.

The Coast Guard had a presence but i think they enjoyed being out amongst the excitement as much as the participants.

After the first 24hrs of rough conditions, the seas settled down but we encountered squalls

Sunset off the Honduran Mainland

Dawn on our way to Guanaja. No wind and an oily sea.

Honduran lobster pot trawler similar to the one that gave us a visit after the thunderstorm off the Honduras mainland

As we entered the anchorage at Guanaja we passed this imposing apartment building built on a small rock island.

Quiet anchorage just to the south of Bonacca Cay

Most people on Guanaja live on Bonacca Cay. It is jammed pack full of houses.

There was some interesting architecture built on the exposed parts of the reef

Sailing wing on wing for the first time. The trade winds would arrive in the early afternoon each day so we were able sail downwind with this sail setup.

Sunrise in the bay off Livingston Guatemala. The rain had started to clear and there were small fishing boats coming into the bay from all over the place.

The line of the fresh water flowing into the bay outside Livingston. We entered the bar near the top of the tide but the water was still flowing out of the river.

Arwen crossing the bar at the mouth of the Rio Dulce being assisted by a Launcha pulling the yacht by a halyard from the mast.

Lots of officials visited our boats to perform the checking in process. Easy although they cleaned me out of soft drink.

We commenced our journey up the Rio Dulce and we stunned by the number of large houses/mansions situated at the rivers edge. As this area is land locked and the only way of getting in and out is by boat, it makes sense to have a boat garage under your house.

The Rio Dulce Gorge

After the Gorge and before you enter El Golfette lake

The only way to get around is by boat or canoe. Not much free board and this guy headed for some over hanging trees and held on when a power boat went past.

This is quite a skill - standing in a small canoe and throwing a large net.

The design of the Guatemalan houses allows air flow in and out through large peaks on four sides in the high roof (incredibly cooling). Railings and furniture are made from local wood. Many of the homes are built on poles over swamp land next to the river and many have edged the banks in stone. Not sure if this is for effect or to help prevent water ingress.

We made it!

Our anchorage at Burnt Key (Cayo Quemada) just past the entrance into the El Golfette

We bought lunch from a Lady who approached our boat in a canoe. Spicy Chicken soup and a corn maize dumpling wrapped in a banana leaf. It was good so when she came by a few days later we bought more Q35 quetzals ($5).

Bucket cool down. It is so good to be in fresh water and the quality of the water is very good - no fertilisers, chemicals etc.

Sun hitting the ever present clouds over the mountains.

Coconut drinks fresh from the palms - restaurant at the Hot Springs.

The Hot Springs - the hot water seeps through the rocks on the river bank and warms the water at the edge. This is where Jens and I kept everyone amused with our antics as little fish nibbled at the soles of our feet.

How the local kids get to and from school.

Local village.  Many of the local houses have jetty's attached to them and they rent the dock space for yacht storage.

One afternoon we were doing a dinghy explore and came across this little marina/workshop. We met Casey, an American, who has built himself a home and workshop and does a lot of woodwork/repairs. Dani & Jens will leave Arwen here when they go back to Germany/USA.

Casey is also building himself a plane. The woodwork was intricate. He can't fly but feels that should be no barrier.

This is the design of the plane.

Launcha ride up to Fronteras for a look around before moving the boats up to the Marina district

The bridge that spans the river at Fronteras

This is the main road. The stalls/markets are built out to the road and with no footpath you walk along the road ducking cars, cattle trucks, bikes and tuk tuks. This photo was taken when there was a gap in the traffic.

A local shop with bags of beans, grain and spices on display

Five Islands side tied to the dock at Mar Marine. Most boats here have been left while their owners go home for the Hurricane season. There are only 7 occupied boats here at the moment.

Our neighbours - Rose (S/V My Peace) on the left and Vivienne (S/V Mary Ann) on the right.

Flocks of birds (they look like Shags) are commonly seen from our cockpit.

Margaritas and dinner at Las Mexicanas & Kangaroo Restaurant last night. Great mexican food, amazing Margaritas and set amongst the jungle/swamp up small creek off the Rio Dulce. It is owned by an Australian and his Mexican wife. They even offer fair dinkum Aussie Hamburgers (with beetroot). We will definitely be coming back here.