Motor into swell, then turn to port, all sails fetch along pretty coast to stylish Pilos

chrisandjane aboard Liveloula
Chris Cooke
Mon 25 Apr 2016 12:55

36:55.13N 21:42.0E

 

Sunday 25April To Pilos, just inside stunning Navarinon bay 39nm (S3.75 M2.5)

Cloud ashore, sun at sea

Monday 25 Forecast the same – lets get to Pilos. Depart 0900 Remnants of SW swell as we head SW, directly upwind. Wind backs a tad as we clear mountains ashore to coastal low lying agricultural land and we turn S 40degrees. 1045 sails out, engine off. Fetching down on starboard, sheets eased a tad, just making 4knts and heading for the gap between Nisos (Island) Proti and mainland. Think might lose wind in lee of high island, but don`t. Keep sailing. Spectacular cliffs approaching the 160degree turn to port into Ormos Navirinou. Lumpy sea too as swell rebounds off cliffs, so motor last half mile and into bay and Pilos “marina”. Like so many marinas in Greece, a huge project got as far as putting in the concrete quays and pipes for water and electricity, but no services ever made it and all gradually falling into disrepair with a number of derelict boats taking up useful space. No one seems to have the authority or money to sort it out. Bugs me lots. We are last in and (fraudulent)HM waves us in to berth alongside at seaward end of breakwater 1515. 5 euros demanded – ask for a formal receipt – of course none is available as he is unofficial and obviously nautically unknowledgeable. Have pencil notes in pilot that a swell builds up at this end of breakwater, but not really anywhere else to park. At least the forecast NW f7 will blow us off the quay, so it won`t be a case of fenders squeezed tight and popping. Contact guests due to arrive tomorrow to advise we are now at Pilos, not Kiparissia! Want marmite and tbags brought to the right port! Stroll ashore Looks lovely place. Lots of locals about and a few early season tourists. Nice mix. Hoards of kids outdoors mucking about on bikes and playing and making noise in big central square. Good to see. But no ships water supply. Advised about a tap some way off. Will search for tomorrow whilst waiting for guests to arrive.

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