Westray and Papa Westray 59:19.39N
02:58.56W
30 July
We woke to another stunning day in Orkney. Every
report we get is that the rest of the UK is suffering terrible storms and
torrential rain, yet we sit here with lovely sunny days, no rain to speak of,
and good sailing winds. Whilst gales had been forecast for the Fair Isle
area (Shipping Area), this is a vast area and we are tucked down in the South
of it, and saw nothing more than Force 5-6. We had decided to take a day
exploring Westray and Papa Westray (also known as Papay) and so we did.
We headed out from the harbour in the morning and crossed to the West side of
the Island coming across a glorious sandy beach with extensive machair behind,
looking toward Noup Head. Our route back to Pierowall took us past a fine
castle/fortified residence (Noltland Castle) built by Gilbert Balfour a key
supporter of Mary Queen of Scots. Balfour appears to have been addicted
to plotting and political intrigue and needed his heavily fortified house on an
isolated island to defend himself from his numerous enemies. After
betraying most of Scotland he fled to Sweden and was finally executed for his
part in a plot to overthrow the King.
Grobust beach on the West coast of Westray
Back to the harbour and to the crab processing plant.
This is one of Westray's major exports - locally, but much to France and Spain,
and creel boats were frequently arriving and unloading their catch on the dock
right behind us. You step into the plant and there is the most heavenly
smell of freshly cooked crab - our order placed we had to wait 15 minutes
whilst the meat was picked and packed. It arrived still warm from cooking
- difficult to get fresher than that. so it was crab sandwiches for lunch
- with rolls from village bakery and the best crab we have ever tasted.
Creel boats unloading at Pierowall Harbour
We took the 20 minute ferry across to Papay for the
afternoon. Whilst Westray is known as the 'Queen o' the Isles' and is
said to capture the best of Orkney as it used to be, Papay does the same on an
ever smaller scale. It packs in a lot for such a small island. Numerous
historical sites, including the Knap of Howar, at 5000 years old the oldest
standing house in Northern Europe, the best puffin nesting site in Orkney and
great coastal footpaths. Knap of Howar was much better preserved than
many of the Neolithic sites we have seen on Shetland and Orkney and, if you
imagine a roof and a few more sand dunes before you get to the sea, a building
that could even be comfortable
Westray cattle (for
Ian)
Knap of Howar
Back in Westray we had one of our best dinners of the trip
so far - more crab on some superb traditional Swedish crispbread (circular with
a hole in the middle - like small millstones) followed by a broad bean risotto.
