The crew is complete at last. We finally got to Pond Inlet last Friday to pick up Pete and Hywel; the first boat to get there this year. We couldn’t continue on up Admiralty Board Inlet due to solid ice so we headed back out East the way we had sailed in, and then North up the East coat of Bylot Island. We crossed Lancaster Sound and are now at anchor in Dundas Harbour. This isn’t actually a ‘harbour’ in the sense that most of us would understand, but it is a very sheltered inlet with protection from all directions from ice and wind. Here we must wait for the ice further West to break up. Hywel, our entertainments secretary, is busy planning a programme of activites to keep us occupied for the several days we may be here. His options are limited by us having to carry a gun every time we go ashore and the biting cold wind. We always knew that this expedition would involve some waiting around. We must be patient with the ice.

 

From Phil on Ice Navigation

The crossing from Greenland went smoothly as we entered the sound between Bylot and Baffin island a stiff westerly built up slowing progress to the point where we peeled off and anchored for a couple of hours. Eventually ice began to drift into the bay and we upped anchor and continued our way towards our last remaining crew members in Pond Inlet. As we got nearer we were pushed further and further north by the ice with luckily the wind abating until flat calm. It became obvious that in order to get to the township still some 10 mile away we would have to enter the ice.

 

The forecast for the area was up to 3/10ths but of course this 3/10ths can be congregated in one place making the density even thicker. We followed ice ‘Leads’ gaps and channels in the ice, myself near the bow giving Cath on the helm directions while Dai did his best to keep an overview of the situation, from the top of the coach roof or wherever else he could get a good view.

 

From the bow the route due to perspective can only be planned a couple of hundred metres ahead instructions have to be given for the exact point to turn in order to get the boat into the next bit of clear water without swinging the back into another ice flow. If you are nervous manoeuvring in a crowded marina then this is definitely not for you! Dai from the coach roof could give general directions towards areas that looked more open but even from there the horizon would appear to be blocked by a 20 metre ice wall one of the many mirages experienced in this latitude. Eventually after a number of hours some help from locals out seal fishing a couple of turning back on ourselves we made it to open(ish) water near the shore for a 5 mile run up to the township of Pond Inlet dropping Anchor at well gone midnight still light of course with kids playing on the beach.

 

The following morning it was round two to get out with more of the same but as we reached the edge of the ice and it thinned out we had the joy of a stiff breeze behind us which of course meant the ice bits were moving with some vigour. So another three or so hours on the front giving hand signals to get out. Through all this we only Kissed a couple of bigger bits of ice and hit a number of tinkley bits (about the size of a tennis ball). But the stress and concentration that this operation takes cannot be over stated. We were lucky (i would also like to think skilled enough as a team) to get through. We have just talked to another boat at our anchorage and they got stuck in another area for over half a day a boat travelling with them a hundred metres away got out. Its all in the lap of the Ice gods.

 

From Phil Britton Ice Pilot (Brad Pitt is going to play my part in the movie).

 

Women’s gossip (Catherine):

 

All that ice navigation was excellent (and nerve racking). We did see a narwhale surface in the middle of it all but it hardly got a look. My eyes were peeled to the next bit of ice to be manoeuvred around and Phil’s hand signals. We did have two occasions when the only way through was to slowly nudge at the ice, whilst Dave and Phil pushed with their ice poles (actually broken topper masts) to push the floes apart. After this we had a big lumpy sea on the nose with rain and poor vis. Grim stuff but so far nothing as bad as I had imagined.

 

So now we’re in Dundas Harbour – this is on Devon Island and may be the furthest North we will go. The scenery is exactly as I imagined. Mountains covered in snow with numerous glaciers down to the sea. Impressive stuff.

 

Today was a boat job day and general tidy up. Also included an extensive hunt for a jar of coffee. The food is scattered in numerous lockers so not so easy to locate – despite the list which should account for every item.

 

Phil and I have not been ashore yet. So tomorrow we plan to take our first steps ashore on Canadian land and my intention is to head for one of the peaks above the anchorage. We’re very much in polar bear territory now so the rifle will be with us.

 

The ice news is that things are pretty much frozen just due west of us so we will be staying put here for a while. I’ll be glad of the books I brought.