Vernazza
Altea
Wed 20 Aug 2014 07:23
7 August 2014
This is the prettiest of the Cinque Terre, according to the pilot book, and is the destination for J's birthday, which is today.
Our departure was delayed, waiting for wind, but we eventually got off at 12:30 wafting along. We had to motor as the wind then fell away and we had a lucky escape when S spotted a line in the water. If the wind had been stronger, and the water choppier, we would not have seen it. We ran straight over it, but S's shout was just in time for me to cut the engine, so that by the time it got to the back of the boat a few seconds later, the prop was not spinning. It was a heavy nylon or glass fibre line, and would have quickly wrapped the prop and brought it to a sudden stop. That could have done some damage and also left us without propulsion or steerage, and no wind to get us away from the shore. Fortunately, and partly because of risks like this, we avoid being too close in and would have had time to sort it out, but we are all very pleased not to have to do so. The line is fished up with a boat hook and although it has gone round the rudder, it is not snagged.
Vernazza looks very pretty from the sea, with a tiny fishing harbour, that we can not get into, and a few boats anchored off. It has a much more rustic charm than Porto Fino, but is no worse for that. There is quite a swell, and rather than put the dinghy down I whistle to a water taxi man who we have seen dropping off some other people. With brown skin, silver hair and tiny speedos he looks like he has been doing this for a long time. He comes across in his wooden launch, with fenders tied along every inch of gunwale, and an old but very smooth Johnson outboard. He takes us off very skilfully, and agrees to pick us up at 10:30. We don't have to pay him until we get back.
The town is a gem. With no motor traffic, the narrow streets are very peaceful and picturesque; a couple of the back streets are little more than shoulder width, and two people passing have to turn sideways.
After the usual dilemma (or whatever the term would be for a dozen options of equal attractiveness, and four people to choose between them) we settle on a place for dinner, and S has done us proud in picking a pizza place with a wood oven, a highly entertaining owner and a great location on the square.
We have an equally skilful water taxi home - this time Tony has put on a shirt and carries a head torch, and asks us to pay "whatever you think". Safely on board, we settle down for a rolly night. One of the problems of a mainland coast is that you can't tuck yourself round a corner out of the prevailing swell, as you can on an island. It was worth it on this occasion though and we grab a few hours sleep before getting up at 04:30, and setting off for Marina de Pisa, where S and L used to have a holiday home, and they are looking forward to a walk down memory lane.